Vintage Disney Lobby Cards Checklist

Vintage Disney lobby cards, produced from the late 1930s through the mid 1960s, are a focused collecting niche with clear identification rules and distinct market behavior. This checklist walks through what a complete set looks like, which images to prioritize, how to date cards using verso stamps and ink, how to spot linen-era originals, how to display a tight 5 to 8 card set, which condition problems hurt value most, and exactly what marketplace signals to track in 2026.

What is a complete lobby card set for a Disney theatrical release (typical set sizes and numbering conventions from 1937 to 1964)?

For collectors the first question is simple, but the answer depends on the film and the period. The dominant format for Disney theatrical releases between 1937 and 1964 was the 11x14 lobby card. Across that range the usual set sizes are 6, 8, and 12 cards, with 8-card sets the most common for feature-length animated releases.

Numbering conventions:

• 6-card sets: Often used for short subjects and some early reissues; cards are numbered 1 to 6 on the verso or not numbered at all.
• 8-card sets: The standard for many feature films (for example Cinderella 1950 and Lady and the Tramp 1955 commonly circulated as 8-card sets). Cards usually numbered 1 to 8; card 1 is often the title card or key promotional portrait.
• 12-card sets: Used for some large releases or for films with multiple foreign-market variants; numbering runs 1 to 12, and sets may split into lobby card 1 to 6 for the domestic release and 7 to 12 for extras or foreign scenes.

How to confirm a complete set when buying online:

1. Ask the seller to confirm the numbering sequence with a single verso photo that shows the card number and any distributor stamps.
2. For an 8-card set expect matched numbering like 1/8 through 8/8, or the absence of numbering but identical paper stock and verso stamps across all cards.
3. Confirm dimensions. The standard 11x14 lobby card must measure within 10mm of 11x14 inches; if the seller lists 8x10 or 16x20 they are not lobby cards for this period.

Worked breakdown: If you are buying a set listed as complete 8 cards and the seller provides six recto photos and two verso shots, request a single compiling photo showing one strip of all eight versos together, or individual verso shots with matching studio stamps. If any card lacks the verso stamp or has a different paper tone, treat it as suspect and price it accordingly.

Set Type	Typical Films (examples)	Typical Count	What to confirm
Short subject	Silly Symphonies shorts	6	Numbering 1 to 6 or identical verso stamps
Feature (most animation)	Cinderella, Lady and the Tramp, Sleeping Beauty	8	11x14, matched verso stamps, 1/8 to 8/8
Expanded or export set	Fantasia variants, foreign releases	12	Check for foreign language text and catalog codes

Note: some sellers call 8-card sets "complete" when the movie originally had a 12-card run for certain markets. When a full provenance is important, compare the seller images to reference archives or series listing in collector guides. If you want a short primer on listing photos and provenance checks, our eBay image provenance guide provides the exact photo crops to request.

Related reading: if you collect Disney park ephemera alongside lobby cards, the 1955 Disneyland opening day materials illustrate how studio and park promotional pieces vary in stamp types and paper stock /blog/1955-disneyland-opening-day-map.

Which Disney films (1937 to 1964) have the rarest or most sought-after lobby card images collectors should prioritize?

Rarity and collector demand do not always align. Some images are scarce because few survived, others because a single hero image has become desirable for display or licensing reasons. From 1937 to 1964 these films and images deserve priority for different reasons.

1. Lady and the Tramp (1955). The hero portrait and the famous spaghetti table scene are both high-demand images. PriceCharting shows a single ungraded Lady and the Tramp 11x14 at $14, graded comps jump to PSA9/graded $221.07 and PSA10 at $4,374.14, which illustrates how a single top-condition card can vastly outprice raw copies.
2. The Sword in the Stone (1963). Key action scenes and Merlin portraits are scarce in matched 8-card sets. PriceCharting ungraded listing is $11.39, with PSA10 comps at $1,601.76, making it a prioritized title for collectors who target PSA 9 or 10 conversions.
3. Sleeping Beauty (1959). The film had limited initial promotion relative to Cinderella; certain promo shots show much lower survival. PriceCharting lists an ungraded Sleeping Beauty 1959 lobby card at $7.10, which is a modest raw price but can rise for rare hero portraits.
4. Mary Poppins (1964). Though late in the window, Mary Poppins cards are plentiful in raw state but hero images and UK/European variants are sought. PriceCharting shows ungraded copies around $4.50 and graded new items at $13.04, indicating a clear graded premium even for later titles.
5. Fantasia (1940) and Pinocchio (1940). Early titles often exist in smaller print runs for some promotional images. Raw PriceCharting comps for Fantasia and Pinocchio 11x14 queries show ungraded values at $5.48; specific hero images can be rare when printed for limited regional promotional runs.

Prioritization checklist when sourcing:

• Target hero portrait or title-card images first, then key scene images, then montage or background shots.
• Compare the seller's verso stamps to known studio/distributor timelines. If a card is from a rare regional run, the verso language or distributor code will often make that clear.
• Use sold comp checks for both raw and graded copies. Even low raw prices can mask high-graded demand, as you can see with Lady and the Tramp PSA10 at $4,374.14.

Table: Titles to watch and indicative PriceCharting raw/graded numbers

Title	Year	Raw Price	PSA9 / Graded	PSA10
Lady and the Tramp	1955	$14	$221.07	$4,374.14
The Sword in the Stone	1963	$11.39	$113.16	$1,601.76
Sleeping Beauty	1959	$7.10	N/a	N/a
Mary Poppins	1964	$4.50	$8.27 (graded used)	N/a

Note: PSA grading for lobby cards is not as common as for trading cards, but when a movie-card achieves PSA10 it can create a liquidity spike for that image specifically. See our grading remarks primer for how grader notations alter value and how to prepare a candidate for submission /blog/grading-remarks-explained-2026.

Which specific studio stamps, distributor back-marks, and verso ink codes reliably help date an original Disney lobby card without laboratory testing?

Dating via verso marks is the most reliable non-lab approach. For Disney lobby cards, the three most consistent verso identifiers are the distributor imprint, the studio copyright line, and any inking or hand-written release codes.

1. Distributor imprint: RKO vs Buena Vista. RKO Radio Pictures distributed Disney films through the early 1950s. If the verso lists RKO Radio Pictures you can confidently date the print to the pre-1954 window. Buena Vista Distribution was created in 1953 and began distributing Disney films domestically starting with some 1954 releases; if you see Buena Vista or Buena Vista Distribution the card is post-1953.
2. Wording variations in the copyright block. Older verso blocks often read "Walt Disney Productions" with a 4-digit year and a production code. From the late 1950s forward you will see slight legal wording changes and sometimes country-of-origin stamps; these are small but consistent signals.
3. Ink codes and hand stamps. Many studio pressrooms used brush or rubber ink codes to indicate print runs. Examples to watch for: a numeric code like "A-12" or an abbreviation for the studio printer. These hand-applied marks often match surviving press lists and can show a regional pressing or a reprint batch.

How to use verso stamps in practice, step-by-step:

1. Get a high-resolution photo of the full verso including any marginal writing or staple marks.
2. Compare the distributor line. If it reads RKO, date it pre-1954. If it reads Buena Vista, date it 1954 or later.
3. Look for printer names such as "C.A. Motion Picture Service" or town-level printers. These sometimes link to known print runs in collector databases.
4. Cross-check with reference images for the same card number in known archives. If the verso has foreign language distributor text, treat it as a different market variant and price separately.

Example: a Lady and the Tramp promo with an RKO verso would be unusual because the film’s domestic distribution was transitioning to Buena Vista in 1955. Finding an RKO-versed Lady and the Tramp suggests a specially printed early run or a regional leftover, and that rarity explains why single cards from that run can fetch higher graded comps like the PSA10 PriceCharting listing at $4,374.14.

When you need help reading verso stamps, our image provenance guide shows the exact crops and EXIF checks to request from sellers to avoid misdated copies /blog/ebay-image-provenance-photo-forensics. For context on seasonality of demand and when to list cards for peak returns, see our Collectibles Seasonality 2026 calendar /blog/collectibles-seasonality-2026.

Which types of images (hero portrait, key scene, alternate artwork, montage) typically command the highest collector interest and why?

Not all images are equal. Collectors value images for displayability, scarcity, and cultural resonance. Here’s a prioritized list with why each type matters.

1. Hero portrait / title-card: A single character portrait or title treatment is the most liquid image type. These images reproduce cleanly in frames, are recognizable from a distance, and often appeared in fewer press sheets. Example: Lady and the Tramp hero portrait copies can climb to high graded valuations, as shown by the PSA10 PriceCharting comp at $4,374.14.
2. Key scene (iconic frame): Scenes that translate to emotional moments, like the spaghetti scene in Lady and the Tramp, are highly desirable. These often show more wear because they were used heavily in theatre displays, making high-grade survivors rarer.
3. Alternate artwork / concept artwork: These are less common and can carry niche collector demand when tied to production stories or unused poster art. They will usually be priced premium to standard production shots but attract a narrower buyer set.
4. Montage / background shots: Less in-demand because they are often busy compositions and harder to display effectively. They are useful to complete sets but rarely command the highest single-card prices.

Collector logic: hero portraits are a near-universal favorite because they work in a single-mat frame and are instantly identifiable. From a resale perspective they are easier to price and easier for buyers to find using short keyword searches like "Lady and the Tramp lobby card spaghetti scene" or "Mary Poppins 11x14 hero portrait." If you want layout help for framing hero portraits as a set, our graded comics and display guide has a framework you can adapt to 11x14 lobby cards /blog/graded-comics-storage-insurance-2026.

Price sensitivity and image type. A raw hero portrait often commands multiples of a montage card in similar condition because the buyer pool is larger and more display-oriented. When sourcing on eBay, prioritize hero portraits first and then fill out sets with lower-demand images.

How can you visually and tactilely tell original linen-texture era prints from later reprints or modern repros using photos and hands-on checks?

Distinguishing original linen-era prints from reprints or modern repros is one of the most practical skills for lobby card collectors. The linen era, roughly mid-1930s through the 1950s for many studio prints, has specific tactile and visual markers that you can check remotely with good photos or in person with a few tools.

1. Paper texture and feel. Original linen-texture prints feel slightly coarse and have a visible cross-hatch or canvas-like texture when viewed at an angle. If you can handle the card, run a gloved finger lightly across the face; linen prints feel minimally raised where the halftone ink sits, while modern repros feel flat and uniform.
2. Halftone dot pattern under magnification. Use a 10x loupe. Original halftone prints show larger halftone dots and occasional misregistration between colors. Modern digital repros will show very small, regular dots or inkjet patterns that look like a grid.
3. Deckle or rough-cut edges. Linen-era cards sometimes have irregular edges left from older trimming processes. Modern reproductions usually have factory-straight, very even borders.
4. Verso paper tone and glue residue. Originals often show age on the verso, including mild browning, paste marks where they were once mounted, or hinge tape residue. A clean, bright white verso with laser-printed text is a red flag for repros.
5. Colors and fading patterns. Old dyes fade unevenly, with magenta and cyan shifting more noticeably; a uniformly saturated print with perfect blacks and highlights is likely a modern reprint unless it has provenance and a verso stamp consistent with period printers.

Photo checklist to ask a seller for when you cannot inspect in person:

• Full recto at 300 dpi or clear phone photo with even lighting at a slight angle to show any linen texture.
• Close-up of a corner at 10x magnification or a good crop showing halftone dots.
• Full verso showing stamps, any printer credits, and the paper tone.
• Edge shots to reveal deckle trimming or machine-cut edges.

Comparison example: compare a Pinocchio 1940 lobby card photo (raw PriceCharting ungraded $5.48) with a modern repro posted as "vintage". The real linen-era card will have uneven paper tone on the verso and a dot pattern visible under magnification. If those are missing, the listing warrants a lowball offer or a decline.

When evaluating reprint risk, our NES cartridge PCB guide and poster identification posts show similar image crops and provenance checks you can borrow; the same logic applies for lobby cards where physical stamps and printer credits are primary proof /blog/nes-cartridge-pcb-identification, /blog/1977-star-wars-one-sheet-identification.

How should a collector prioritize a small display set (5 to 8 cards) for visual impact and marketability, sequencing, framing sizes, and narrative choices?

Most buyers will not buy a 12-card set for framing; they want fewer images that read well on a wall. A carefully chosen 5 to 8 card set gives immediate display impact and better resale potential. Here is a practical workflow for selecting and sequencing cards.

1. Pick a focal hero image first. This is the largest, most recognizable image. For Lady and the Tramp pick the spaghetti table scene or the close-up of the two dogs for the central frame.
2. Choose supporting key scenes next. Two or three strong scenes that connect visually or narratively to the hero image. For Mary Poppins, a central hero portrait with chimney sweeping or rooftop scenes works well.
3. Add two atmosphere/character shots for balance. These round out the narrative and provide color variation. For Sleeping Beauty that might be Aurora, Maleficent, and Flora/Fauna shots to balance dark and light tones.
4. Frame sizes and matting. Lobby cards are 11x14. Common display approaches: a single-row 5-card float frame with 11x14 mats, a 3-up top row and 2-up bottom row for a 5-card composition, or a tightly matted 8-card 2x4 grid. Use acid-free mats and museum-glass for UV protection to preserve color and avoid losses from light damage.
5. Sequencing by narrative flow. Arrange left to right by story progression: setup, conflict, climax, resolution. This reads naturally to viewers and helps marketability because it makes the set feel curated rather than random.

Worked example: you buy an 8-card Cinderella set raw across eBay for $5.48 per card average buyer price shown on PriceCharting for similar titles. You might display 5 cards in a 1x5 row: central hero portrait, pumpkin carriage, ball scene, fairy godmother, and Cinderella in rags. Reserve the extras for sale as singles if you decide to liquidate the display later.

Marketability note: buyers shopping for single hero cards or 5-card displays look for matching paper tone and verso stamps. If your five chosen cards show inconsistent verso stamps, label them clearly in the listing and price accordingly. For display and shipping guidance, see our graded comics and display preservation article for matting choices you can adapt /blog/graded-comics-storage-insurance-2026.

What condition issues (hinge tape, seam splits, tears, fading, foxing, border loss) most frequently reduce value and what conservative preservation choices preserve marketability?

Condition is everything with lobby cards. A single hinge tape repair on a hero portrait can reduce value more than all but the worst discoloration on a montage card. Below is a ranked list of condition issues by severity and practical preservation choices.

1. Seam splits and tears. Top severity. A tear running into the image area or a seam split that interrupts the composition dramatically lowers value. Conservative preservation: mend only with reversible Japanese tissue repair by a paper conservator. Do not use pressure-sensitive tape as that ruins grading prospects.
2. Hinge tape and adhesive residue. Common because theatre owners tacked cards to walls. Residue and hinge tape marks are bad for display and valuation. Preservation: consult a conservator for adhesive removal; do not try solvents yourself unless experienced.
3. Major color fading and sun damage. Strongly reduces value for hero portraits. Prevention: store behind UV-filter museum glass and away from sunlight. For already faded cards, document the grade and price defensively.
4. Foxing and staining. Moderate to severe impact depending on location. Minor foxing in margins is less culpable but foxing across key facial areas will drop bids. Preservation: keep in stable humidity and use archival sleeves.
5. Border loss and trimming. Border loss harms value because collectors prize original margins. Framing can mask small border losses, but you should disclose and photograph any cropped edges clearly.

Conservative preservation checklist:

• Store flat in acid-free folders or polyester sleeves; avoid folding or rolling.
• Use buffered backing boards and keep humidity at 30 to 50 percent.
• For high-value cards consider professional conservation, but weigh cost against possible uplift; small repairs may reduce a grader's willingness to grade.
• Document every conservation step in the listing and provide before/after photos if the card has been treated.

Worked math example: Repair by a conservator can cost $100 to $400 depending on tear severity. If you own a card with raw value $14 and potential PSA10 comps of $4,374.14, a $250 repair could be highly justifiable. But for a raw card valued at $5 to $10 the repair probably eats all upside. Always run the numbers before commissioning work.

Which measurable marketplace signals and watchlist alerts should collectors monitor in 2026 to spot rising demand or rare surges for specific Disney lobby cards?

In 2026 measurable marketplace signals are your fastest early warning system. Collectors need to watch supply-side and demand-side indicators and combine them into actionable alerts.

1. Sold velocity and sold price trend. Track the number of sold listings over rolling 30, 60, and 90 day windows. A sustained rise in sold price or sold frequency indicates a trend, but short bursts might be noise.
2. Active listings decline. If available raw listings on eBay drop below 5 for a particular image, that scarcity often precedes a price surge. Use saved searches and watchlist tools to get notified when supply drops.
3. Watchlist growth on key items. If the number of watchers increases by 50 percent week over week, that suggests growing interest. Rarity Finder’s scanner can surface those watcher changes for pages you monitor.
4. Graded pop report movement. New PSA or BGS entries for a title, or a jump in PSA10 population for a single image, signals market re-evaluation. Combine grader population checks with sold comps for a clearer picture; see our grader population analysis methodology for how to read those shifts /blog/grader-population-report-analysis.
5. Media or anniversary triggers. Film anniversaries, documentary releases, or museum exhibits may lift interest. For example a 2026 retrospective or museum showing tied to a Disney title can push interest for related lobby cards for several months.

Practical scanner setup for 2026:

• Create saved searches for the exact title, image type, and dimension (e.g. "Lady and the Tramp 11x14 lobby card spaghetti scene").
• Enable alerts for sold listings above a threshold and for watcher-count increases on active listings.
• Monitor graded submissions and population reports weekly; if PSA10 counts change from 0 to 1 for an image that often creates a short-term collector scramble.

Worked example signal: If you track Lady and the Tramp hero portraits and see watchers increase from 5 to 30 over a week, and simultaneously raw active listings drop from 12 to 4, that combination historically leads to a 1.5x to 3x sold-price uptick in the following 30 days for strong images. That is the kind of multi-signal confirmation you want before spending for grading or conservation.

To run this process faster, use tools that scan eBay and show you highest-probability moves rather than chasing single listings manually. When you are ready to move from alerts to action, the auction max bid calculator can help decide on bid ceilings and buyer math /blog/ebay-auction-max-bid-calculator.

Are single standout cards usually easier to sell than complete sets, and which single-card types historically show better liquidity?

Short answer: yes, single standout cards are usually easier to sell than complete sets, especially if the single is a hero portrait in excellent condition. There are a few reasons for that reality.

1. Larger buyer pool for singles. Buyers want one iconic image for framing or display. That means quicker turnover and wider search queries on eBay.
2. Lower price threshold. Singles can be purchased by impulse display buyers; complete sets often require deeper pockets or serious collectors willing to hold longer.
3. PSA-grade concentration. Many single hero cards receive the majority of graded interest. The Lady and the Tramp PSA10 comp at $4,374.14 is a case in point. Complete sets in mixed condition rarely achieve that singular top-dollar result unless every card is high grade.

Which single-card types have the best liquidity?

• Hero portraits and key character close-ups, because they are instantly recognizable and easy to display.
• Iconic scenes that map to licensed imagery, such as Cinderella at the ball or the Fantasia Sorcerer Mickey portrait, as they appeal to both Disney and general film collectors.
• Regional variants and rare reversed-color prints, though these are narrower audiences and might take longer to sell even if they command a premium.

Worked profit example using verified PriceCharting values and conservative grading math:

1. Buy raw Lady and the Tramp card for $14 (PriceCharting ungraded figure).
2. Assume grading and associated costs (shipping, insurance, slab) total $150.
3. Assume a final sale at PSA10 for $4,374.14 (PriceCharting PSA10 comp).
4. Seller fees and final value costs estimated at 12 percent of sale: $524.90.
5. Net proceeds = 4,374.14 - 524.90 - 150 - 14 = $3,685.24.
6. Net ROI = 3,685.24 / (14 + 150) = 3,685.24 / 164 = 2246 percent.

That example is extreme because PSA10 comps for certain hero images are disproportionately high relative to raw prices. It highlights why single hero cards often make better grading candidates than whole sets unless you can assemble a very high condition set.

Card	Year	Raw Price	PSA9 / Graded	PSA10	Calculated Net ROI (example)
Lady and the Tramp	1955	$14	$221.07	$4,374.14	2246% (see worked example assumptions)
The Sword in the Stone	1963	$11.39	$113.16	$1,601.76	773% (same fee and grading assumptions)
Sleeping Beauty	1959	$7.10	N/a	N/a	N/a
Mary Poppins	1964	$4.50	$8.27 (graded used)	N/a	N/a

Assumptions footnote: grading and associated costs are estimated at $150, seller fees at 12 percent. Your exact costs will vary by grader, submission tier, and sale channel. See our grading remarks and ROI playbook for grading cost examples and how to decide when a submission makes sense /blog/grading-remarks-explained-2026.

What exact photo crops and listing details should you use when offering a Disney lobby card on eBay to reduce buyer questions and returns?

Clarity in a listing reduces questions, returns, and time-to-sale. For lobby cards use these exact photo crops, shot descriptions, and listing language to make buyers comfortable and to minimize disputes.

1. Full recto at 1:1 crop. Show the entire 11x14 card, centered, with neutral lighting. Include a ruler or coin in a corner for scale if the card is not the standard 11x14.
2. Full verso photo including distributor stamps and any hand-stamps. This is critical for dating and proves whether the card is an original. If you read RKO vs Buena Vista print the text in the listing to make it searchable.
3. Corner close-ups. Take at least two 300 dpi close-ups that show the top-left and bottom-right corners to highlight edge wear, rounded corners, or border loss.
4. Detail crops of any damage. If there are hinge marks, tape, tears, foxing, or staining, photograph each issue at high resolution and include a short paragraph describing the repair status or whether it is unrestored.
5. Edge and thickness photo. Show the card on its edge against a dark background to reveal warping and thickness differences that indicate restoration or later backing.
6. Verso stamps and small text crop. Include a crop of any printer credits, copyright line, or numeric codes and transcribe them into the item specifics. Many buyers search by printer code or distributor name.
7. Lighting and color accuracy statement. In the listing add a note: "Colors shown are accurate to natural lighting; monitor calibration may vary." If possible, include a neutral gray card in one recto photo for color reference.

Sample listing checklist you can copy into eBay item description:

• Dimensions: 11 x 14 inches. Measured with a metal ruler.
• Verso: [Transcribe distributor stamp, e.g. "Buena Vista Distribution" or "RKO Radio Pictures"].
• Condition: state condition clearly, e.g. "Light corner bump upper left, hinge tape residue verso, colors bright, no major tears." Include all close-up images.
• Provenance: note if from a single-owner theatre collection or estate sale.
• Return policy and shipping: offer tracked and insured shipping, specify handling time and packing materials (acid-free backing, bubble wrap, sturdy flat mailer).

When in doubt, provide more pictures rather than fewer. If you want practical image provenance techniques for verifying seller photos and spotting reused or stolen images, our eBay image provenance guide explains reverse-image checks and EXIF extraction in detail /blog/ebay-image-provenance-photo-forensics.

Ready to find undervalued collectibles? Scan thousands of eBay listings and identify opportunities before they reach market value. Https://rarityfinder.com

Frequently Asked Questions

What size are most Disney lobby cards from 1937 to 1964?

Most Disney theatrical lobby cards in that period are 11x14 inches, though some shorts used 8x10 or smaller sizes in regional markets.

How many cards typically make a complete set?

Complete sets are usually 8 cards for feature films, 6 cards for many short subjects, and sometimes 12 cards for expanded or foreign sets. Verify numbering or matching verso stamps to confirm completeness.

How do I date a lobby card without lab testing?

Check the verso for distributor imprints such as RKO (pre-1954) or Buena Vista (1954 and later), look for printer credits, and compare ink codes or hand stamps to reference examples.

Which image types sell fastest?

Hero portraits and iconic key scenes sell fastest, because they are ideal for framing and have the largest buyer pool.

Are original linen-texture prints easy to spot?

Yes. Linen-era prints show a coarse cross-hatch texture to the paper and larger halftone dots under magnification. Modern repros look flatter and have smaller, more regular dot patterns.

Should I repair a card before selling?

It depends on the math. Small repairs can increase appeal but may lower grading eligibility. If potential PSA10 comps justify expensive repair, it can make sense; otherwise disclose damage and sell as-is.

Is it better to sell a single hero card or a complete set?

Singles usually sell more quickly and to a wider audience. Complete sets can sometimes fetch a premium, but only when most or all cards are high condition and properly matched.

What photos do buyers demand on eBay?

Buyers expect a full recto, full verso with stamps, corner close-ups, edge thickness shot, and detailed photos of any damage or repairs. Transcribe verso text in the description.

How should I store lobby cards long-term?

Store flat in acid-free sleeves with buffered backing boards, in a stable climate at 30 to 50 percent humidity, away from sunlight and with UV-filtered framing glass for displayed items.

Which marketplace signals should I track in 2026?

Track sold velocity trends, active listing counts (watch when supply drops under five), watchlist growth, and changes in PSA population reports for the specific image you collect.

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